Ender 5 Pro

[Leo]

If you only print PLA and toys it's OK. No more.
I need functional parts.
I've had the printer for a month and I'm still calibrating and trying to get something decent out of PETG.
Now I have upgraded to firmware (BLTouch, according to Creality specifications) and my printer is dead, I only have a blue screen. I don't know how I will solve this problem and especially when. Most likely I will have to buy another motherboard. But will I be able to upgrade the firmware? Can I benefit from BLTouch?
I've been learning a lot since I got the printer from Creality but more than I want. Basically I didn't manage to get into production

From my experience with Ender 5 Pro the conclusion is one: Prusa had to buy !!!

[Leo]

I forgot to mention the curved bed.

[Ender5r]

If I was buying again I would be looking seriously at the ADIMlab Gantry: all metal hotend, huge built plate, 32 bit controller, etc. and cheaper than the Ender 5 Pro. See it at https://www.amazon.com/ADIMLab-Assem...4907202&sr=8-3

However, a new controller would be much cheaper. I would seriously look at the TH3D. It's 32-bit, and they provide serious support if needed. Also, check out the cheap add-ons when you buy their board. I'm looking at upgrading to it later: https://www.th3dstudio.com/product/ezboard-lite/.

Still, I wouldn't give up on your board yet. It may still be able to be updated with new firmware. Have you tried to print anything directly from a computer, over USB? That could tell a lot. What if it can print but it's just that there's no display? That would be interesting.

[Mr Doohickey]

#Leo To get my original display to work with my v2 Creality board I had to rotate the grey ribbon cable 180 degrees and chamfer the rectangular guide so it slides in easily. But I can't remember if you were upgrading the motherboard, or just trying to upgrade the firmware for the BL Touch? From what you say the probe IS working (orange and blue LEDs on) and clicks in and out when powered up?
MrD

[Ender5r]

AFAICR, he's just upgrading the firmware on the 1.1.5 Silent board.

[Leo]

After many tests I decided to proceed as follows: With ENDER 5 I will print only the PLA. If in my projects I will need other materials then I will buy a PRUSA. I wasted too much time with the printer itself. And I was left behind with the projects for which I had bought the print.
Anyway, Ender 5, I wasn't an inspired choice.

[Alan]

Has anyone here been able to 'get something decent out of PETG?' If so, what are your tips and tricks?

Thanks

[Geit]

I want to start PETG, but I need to upgrade my storage. While PLA is here out in the open this is death for PETG. I need a oven to try filament and a storage compartment I can print from. Before that I won´t touch PETG.

Till now I only print PLA and ABS.

[Alan]

I was thinking specifically tips and tricks for printing PETG using the Ender series. I need more coffee in the morning!

Cheers

[Geit]

Well, It has nothing to do with the printer. It is just the print settings and the calibration. Of course the printer needs to be able to meet the temperature specification for bet and filament and you may need a closed build area, but beside that there is no reason a printer model cannot print a certain filament.

[Vassili Finellis]

I print mostly PETG, PA and TPU....and PP

[Alan]

I print mostly PETG, PA and TPU....and PP

Any Ender-specific tips for printing PETG?

[irvshapiro]

Everyone should be able to print with PETG. Check out my DrVax video on the subject where I use PETG on a range of printers including an Ender 5.

https://youtu.be/WjxMA4CkUZc

[Leo]

This is PETG (from Prusa). Nozzle 260 , bed 85, (Celsius degrees) prusa slicer. But I don't like that it's at the limit, and the results are unpredictable.

[irvshapiro]

Many variations of PETG are available that print quite well at 230c to 250c. I have tried PETG from Hatchbox and Sunlu both with excellent success. I used the Prusa supplied PETG to print components to upgrade a MK3 to an MK3s and also found printing with Prusa PETG we much more difficult -- and these prints with on a Prusa. I have used the Sunlu PETG on a Monoprice Select Mini V2, and Ender 5, and ANET ET4 and a Monoprice Ultimate 2 all successfully. The video I listed in the post below goes into the details.

[Vassili Finellis]

The lowest printing temerature is for normal printing speeds and the highest is for higher printing speeds. I print for example with Devil design PETG at 220 successfuly as well as with eSUN's in the same temp. Never use the highest temp as this will destroy your nozzle sooner.Unsuccessfull prints could be caused from weak extruder stepper or mA fault configuration in the firmware. But if you say that you can print PLA successfully, then you might have clogged nozzle. I'm trying to figure what is going wrong with your hot end......

[Ender5r]

This is PETG (from Prusa). Nozzle 260 , bed 85, (Celsius degrees) prusa slicer. But I don't like that it's at the limit, and the results are unpredictable.

I would try 240C with 80C. See how it looks.

[Ender5r]

Forgot to mention, these days I'm printing mostly PETG. I find it a lot more versatile than PLA: good for outdoors, food safe, less brittle, more heat resistent.

[irvshapiro]

I agree PETG is an excellent choice and I print it on all off my 3d printers except for the Monoprice Cadet without difficulty.